1926 GE
Last week we explored retro fridges. The prices were better than new run of the mill high end appliances, but still too high for the budget conscious (and poor). We thought we might do better with actual antique appliances, but alas, we were wrong. Shipping costs alone could total nearly as much as that little baby on sale at Sears.
Fully restored models range from $3000-15,000. Ouch! The restoration process means they are as good as new, both internally and externally. Insulation and parts are replaced, making them energy efficient. Best of all, they are being saved from the landfill.
You can always find inexpensive vintage appliances locally on Craigs, but we wonder how much it would cost to restore them properly?
Antique Appliances
Antique Vintage Appliances
Unlimited Appliances
Tools:
4” or 6” Trowel
Jointer
Tuck Pointer (Joint Filler)
Old Screwdriver
Bucket or mixing basin or wheelbarrow
Spritzer / mister or mortar brush (Or old but clean paint brush)
Mortar hoe or heavy duty drill with mixing paddle
Materials
Mortar – Type N, Type S or from scratch (Sand, Hydrated Lime and Cement)
Clean water
Safety
Rubber gloves
Glasses/goggles
Respirator
If your basement foundation looks like this, you shouldn’t attempt it yourself if it’s your first time. This is serious damage and yes, it supports the house. Call a pro. Yup, it’s our house.
Steps
1. Remove loose mortar from joints to a depth of 3/8”. This can be done with a raking tool (special tool with two wheels and a point that can be set to the depth you want to remove the mortar), an angle grinder with a diamond blade (quick but very messy) or just an old screwdriver. The idea is to remove enough mortar so the new mortar will stick but not so much that you end up rebuilding the wall. The new mortar will hold the original mortar in place so don’t sweat it that the old mortar is a little soft – unless it is just sand and it is flowing out.
2. Clean out raked joints using a brush, whisk broom or vacuum. The area you prepare will depend on your access, your experience, the atmospheric conditions etc…Damp down the joints and brick by misting using the spritzer, spraying with a wet brush or using a hose with the nozzle set on mist.
3. Mix the mortar – unless you are really going for volume and have gained a little experience mix by hand using a shovel or hoe or even with the trowel if it is a small area. It is easier just to use a bag mix – if you can use Type N (1 part cement, 1 part lime, 6 parts sand) the lime is more workable and will allow the joint to flex over time. Type S (1 part cement, 3 parts sand) is stronger and more rigid and should only be used for concrete block or brick rather than clay brick. You can buy the sand, cement and lime loose if you are buying large quantities and want the extra headache. Add the water a little at a time and mix well until you have a wetter consistency than you will use– allow the mortar to slake (start setting up) – it should stiffen but when you work it will loosen up. This is where practice and experience comes in with gauging the amount of water required. If you mix it too wet, add a little mortar to stiffen the mix.
4. Place a scrap piece of plywood below the area you are pointing to catch the mortar that will fall. Pick some mortar up from the basin or bucket with the reverse side of the trowel (so the handle is down and out of your way) and place the long edge of the blade to the horizontal joint. Use the tuck pointer to shove the mortar into the joint – working you way along the joint while pushing the mortar in to fill up the joint. If the mix is too stiff the mortar will be hard to compact into the joint, if it is too wet it will sag out of the joint – this may be due to the mortar not having slaked enough so you may need to give it more time. Fill horizontal joints and then work on the vertical joints – but try to work a small area at a time so that the mortar is still workable in the horizontal joints while you fill the vertical.
5. As time passes the mortar will lose workability when it reaches a certain point junk it and start again. Mortar will fall – as long as it doesn’t get contaminated with dust or dirt you can pick it up and mix it back in with the rest of the mortar. Adding water as you go will weaken the mortar and cause it to crack. After a few minutes you should go back over the joints to tool them using the jointer or the tuck pointer – this helps compact the mortar and you can strike a different profile (concave, raked flat etc…)
6. The trick is to get a rhythm going between raking the joints, mixing, slaking and pointing so that you are not wasting time between steps.
7. If it’s dry and/or hot, I spritz down the joints after they set up to stop them drying out – not too much that the cement or lime is washed out, however.
8. For those hard to reach areas – especially if it is not a cosmetic job – I use my hands to fill the joints and strike the joint with my finger – this is where the rubber or surgical gloves pay off.
Some Links:
Marshall Town
DIY Network
Gardening Data
Feels Like The 70′s Again
What’s going on? Swastikas in Williamsburg and Brooklyn Heights. Burnt out cars in Park Slope. Teens shot on porch in Prospect Park South. Is Brooklyn going to hell in a hand basket? At least my Bed Stuy is still safe.
Brooklyn Heights Blog
Brownstoner
1010 Wins
CBS News
Found out about this one thanks to Lower Hudson via The Real Deal.
The Plaplers, a Manhattan couple, are selling their second home on Putnam Lake. And when we say on Putnam Lake, we mean ON Putnam Lake. They paid $72,500 for it back in the 70′s. Just about what Park Slope brownstones were selling for.
The stone home was built by Bernard McEntegart and his sons 75 years ago. They hauled the material across the water.
Wonder if Fresh Direct delivers?
Let’s jump on the Poughkeepsie bandwagon here, shall we? NY Times just featured an article on the Dutchess county city. Here’s my take on it.
PROS
Past downturn and recent gentrification aside, Poughkeepsie will always have something major going for it. It’s a college town. Home to Vassar, Marist and Suny Dutchess, there has to be some kind of life for all of the students.
Restaurants are plentiful and inexpensive. One can choose from Vietnamese, Middle Eastern, Indian, Mexican, etc, etc.
Culture: not too shabby. The Bardavon Opera House, an 1869 theater, presents jazz and pop concerts, dance, film, comedy and The Hudson Valley Philharmonic. There are many art galleries popping up on and around Main Street.
Poughkeepsie offers ample nightlife for the youngsters. Since I’m an old fot who falls asleep before 10pm, I have no idea what I’m talking about. I have been to The Chance, which did remind me of the clubs of my youth: The Ritz, CBGBs, Danceteria.
Wonderful selection of Victorians at bargain basement prices.
Metro North, although a schlepp to Manhattan, is pretty convenient to have around.
A great area for weekend fun. There’s plenty of antiquing, hiking and river access.
CONS
Poughkeepsie is very spread out. There are nice areas and sketchy ones. Unfortunately, some of the best housing bargains are….guess where?
Cool city. Beware the suburban areas. Cul de Sacs, Raised Ranches, Big SUVs, W Bumperstickers. A city dweller’s nightmare.
The commute is a good hour, forty. Bring a book or take a nap.
City of Poughkeepsie
Poughkeepsie Chamber of Commerce
Poughkeesie Journal
Art Along the Hudson
Exiled Hipster
*There are homes priced under $200k, but we stuck with more desirable neighborhoods.
I’m not one to give advice on this subject because I’ve yet to conquer the problem; however, I am an expert in TRYING to work it out.
Over the years, I’ve had cats that are pe-ers and scratchers and dogs that are chewers. The cats definitely do more damage than the dogs.
DOGS GONE WILD
Two words for dogs who chew: Bitter Apple. Nuf said.
Dogs nails, even when clipped, can scratch floors. Area rugs are a good solution, but if you have cats who pee, not such a good idea.
If you’re a dog owner undergoing renovation and putting in new floors, try to use hardwood. Reclaimed (you weren’t thinking of NEW wood, were you?) pine is lovely, but it scratches when you look at it.
WHEN CATS ATTACK
For scratching: Well, they DO like to scratch. Make sure you have one or two scratching posts around for them. Of course, they like your furniture better. You can buy big sheets of double sided adhesive tape at pet supply stores. This is better for molding as it won’t stick too well to furniture. It works, but it will need to be changed every so often as the tape collects dust and fur.
Cats don’t like the feel or sound of tin foil. This solution has not worked for me for the simple fact that I can’t figure out how to keep it in place.
The balloon trick: If your cat is ripping up your couch, try taping balloons in the area. Mylar works like tin foil. Regular balloons…..they go to scratch, pop one and well……
Peeing: Does someone have advice for ME?
If your cat is urinating outside the litterbox, the first thing you need to do is take kitty to the vet! It could be a sign of a potentially serious health problem.
Some people swear by Feliway, a pheromone that is sprayed around pee spots. It actually has had the opposite desired effect in my house.
Dr. Elsey’s Cat Attract litter is specially formulated for cats who don’t like using their boxes. It really works! But…I stopped using it because I’m not sure how environmentally friendly clumping litter is. It can also be harmful to dogs who eat it as it will set up in their stomachs. (I know I’m not the only one with dogs who partake in kitty treats!) Furthermore, it starts to stink if not cleaned regularly.
CLEANING:
Nature’s Miracle enzymes for floors, etc. Don’t dilute and use it before other cleaners. There are other enzymes out there, but this seems to work best.
Odorz Out for furniture and carpets. It soaks up the moisture. Just vacuum it up.
ODOR:
I’ve been through a few ozone units. They seem to work for awhile, but the ozone cards wear out.
Right now I have the Brookstone Pure Ion purifier and I’m pretty happy with it. Sharper Image carries similar models.
Worst comes to worst, if you are trying to sell or rent a place that reeks of cat pee, you’ll have to cut away at soiled sheetrock and plaster. Get behind molding and floors in the bad spots. Some corners of flooring may also need to be replaced.
More info:
Carleton Island, NY
So, say know you want to buy an old wreck to restore, but you’re open to different locations. Could be retirement or weekend home. Did you know you can buy a house in Lynchburg, VA for $1.00? Ok, they really need to change the name of the town and you may not want to live in MiddleOfNowhere, Virginia, but I’m just sayin’….$1.00.
Some fun links to explore:
Historic Properties
Preservation Online
Old Houses
Antique Real Estate
Design by Craig and Ebay
After restoring 3 floors of our house, there was no money left for the 4th level. The bathroom had to be put in from scratch and we didn’t have time to DIY it. Not that we would’ve spent a cent more on materials if we had it, but we were REALLY on the lookout for bargains this time.
How do you think we did? Is this high or low compared to others? Our big ticket item was the shower enclosure.
Clawfoot Tub: Free. Craigslist
Sink Vanity: $ 40. Craigslist
Glass Counter/Backsplash: $ 50. Craigslist
Sconces: $ 220. Ebay
Stained Glass: $ 250. Ebay
Copper Sink: $ 110. Ebay (Mexicopper)
Vessel Faucet: $ 92. Ebay
Medicine Cabinet: $ 50. Water St Market, New Paltz
Octagon Floor Tiles: $ 250. Bergen Tile
Mariner Toilet: $ 180. Lowes
Shower Enclosure $ 660. Clawfoot Supply
Hunter Exhaust Fan: $ 98. Lowes
Towel/Toilet Holders: $ 16. Ikea
Door: $ 20. Eddie’s Salvage (Greene and Grand, Brooklyn)
Doorknob: Free Came with house
TOTAL: $ 2036
PS:We still need molding, but we can probably come up with enough scrap from our basement.
Toto’s Clayton.
We didn’t have time to research this stuff during our renovation. We pretty much ran out to Lowes and bought the nicest looking toilets we can find within our budget. Hopefully, we’ll make up for our own water consumption by educating others on making wise choices.
As with the energy star label on appliances, look for the Water Sense label on toilets. Because there are so many different models to choose from, we won’t go through all the specs of each toilet, but rather lead you to the manufacturer so you can come to your own conclusions. One problem we have with these is that many of them are too modern looking for our taste.
Toto seems to be the best known in the dual flush category. We’ve heard mixed consumer reviews as far as upkeep and repairs. Tip: try looking on Ebay for bargains.
Caroma USA has a decent selection of dual flush toilets.
Kohler announced this June, the introduction of 9 new toilets bearing the Watersense label.
American Standard’s FloWise Toilet meets EPA requirements.
St. Thomas’ Mariner II is a not too modern looking pressure assisted toilet.
Check out Terry Love’s site for everything you’ve ever wanted to know about toilets. Comparison charts, forum and tips.
Join the mailing list for updates!
There’s a decent selection of 50′s reproductions, but I haven’t seen anything like the one in the photo. Do you know of anyone doing that?
Comment by Anonymous — September 26, 2007 @ 7:48 am
Elmira and Heartland appliances have the closest thing to it, as far as I know. We’ll be covering those lines soon. The thing is, you can find anything….if you’re willing to pay for it.
Comment by RH — September 26, 2007 @ 8:14 am